The Pacific

The Christmas Orchid

Every year before Christmas the Kauai Museum holds an orchid sale. Over the years we have gone there to get our annual Christmas orchid. Something like a Christmas tree, only smaller. One of the nice things about a Christmas orchid is that it doesn't have to be decorated since it comes with lovely blooms. It will also live for years and rewards even the most careless among us with more blossoms. Finally, an orchid takes up much less room than a tree - an important point in our very small condo.

This year the orchids were especially beautiful so we got three. They are small after all. Since I have been trying to connect with my inner photoshop more closely I decided to see if I could create some collages that would capture "orchidness." Here are the results of my experiment. Enjoy and Merry Christmas.

Images taken Christmas Day, 2007.

Kona Winds

One of the especially fun things about Kauai is that it is made up of lots of microclimates. Because it was formed by a volcano and is remote from other major landmasses the wind and ocean interact with the land in wildly varying ways. Mt. Waialeale, for instance, is the wettest spot on earth with over 430 inches of annual rainfall and dramatic waterfalls in every direction. But just a few miles away, in the shadow of Mt. Waialeale, Barking Sands records an annual rainfall of just 8 inches and has vegetation most often found in a desert.

On the north side of the island, which is known for its lush scenery, the annual rainfall is 78 inches per year. On the south side of the island, where we stay, the rainfall averages 35 inches a year. And this year it seemed to all be falling in early December during a particularly intense Kona storm.

By the way, the south side of Kauai, often thought of as a tropical paradise, has almost exactly the same amount of annual rain as Seattle.

Image: Taken on the south shore of Kauai during a recent Kona storm, December 2008.

Kilauea Lighthouse

The Kilauea lighthouse is one of my favorite spots on Kauai. The northernmost point in Hawaii, the lighthouse was built in 1913 but hasn't been used as a lighthouse since the 1970s. Today it is best know for its spectacular views and the many birds who live on its protected shores. Occasionally you can even see a monk seal haul itself out of the ocean to take a rest.

Image: taken December 2007 during recent storms.

Kauai Rescue

In Kauai a rescue can require all sorts of equipment. One day at the market I saw this hummer fully equipped with a surf board and snapped the picture. Later I met a local fire fighter. He told me that everyone on the squad must be able to swim at least a mile in open ocean. The surf board is used not to actually rescue someone in trouble but to enable the rescuer to reach the person quickly by paddling out. Once there, the rescuer assists the person in trouble while a jet ski comes to actually transport the person back to shore.

In spite of the vigilance of fire fighters and other rescue personnel Kauai averages 10 drownings/year. It's not something the visitors' bureau advertises but it is something to keep in mind. The ocean is a beautiful, powerful force that must always be respected.

No rain - no rainbows

If you have ever been to Hawaii you have seen Kimo’s rules. They are generally printed on T-shirts and express the laid back philosophy that is part of the island life style – with a touch of humor. But as popular as Kimo’s rules have become, nobody seems to know very much about Kimo himself.

Several years ago we attended a New Year’s Eve party on Kauai. At the party we met a man who claimed to be Kimo. He was a lovely, gentle man who had previously taught elementary school until he made a trip to Kauai – and decided to stay. I’ve always hoped that he was the real deal and that he is making something on every T-shirt sold. It gives me pleasure to imagine that Kimo is living somewhere on this glorious island because he was able to come up with something that captures the imagination of so many people.

In case you haven’t seen them and just in time for the new year; here they are.

Kimo’s Rules

Never judge a day by the weather
The best things in life aren’t things
Tell the truth – there’s less to remember
Speak softly and wear a loud shirt
Goals are deceptive – the unaimed arrow never misses
He who dies with the most toys – still dies
Age is relative – when you’re over the hill you pick up speed
There are 2 ways to be rich – make more or desire less
Beauty is internal – looks mean nothing
No rain – no rainbows

Image: double rainbow taken in Kauai December 2006.

There is another place

Almost 3000 miles southwest of Seattle, Kauai is another place that feels like home – although a very different type of home. Yin to Seattle’s yang, Kauai offers more than the breathtaking beauty of a tropical island; it feels like a deeply spiritual place. While Seattle is about doing things, Kauai is simply about being.

Not to be confused with Kauai’s more developed sister island of Oahu, her more flamboyant and extroverted sister island of Maui, or the sprawling upstart Big Island still in the process of making itself, Kauai is a tranquil, soothing place where construction is limited to the height of a palm tree (defined as four stories) and fewer than 60,000 permanent residents struggle to maintain a connection with ancient Hawaiian traditions even in the face of increasing numbers of tourists and the recent invasion of “big box” stores.

We have been coming to Kauai for almost 20 years and it still holds a special magic for me. The minute the plane touches down in Lihue I begin to relax. Because there are so few distractions we find it easy to live in tune with the sun and the wind and the sea. We notice a shift in the trades and rejoice at every sunrise and sunset. We slow down enough to hear the birds sing and appreciate the glory of the earth.

Image: Early morning fisherman preparing his throw-net, December 2006.